A riverside citadel, symbol of a king’s ambitions: The ruins here tell a story

Last Updated27/08/2024

A short walk from the stadium leads to a 14th-century monument built by Firoz Shah Tughlaq, ruler of the Tughlaq dynasty who succeeded his cousin Muhammad bin Tughlaq.

Feroz Shah Kotla, now known as the Arun Jaitley Stadium, is not just a significant landmark in Indian cricket but also a historical monument that echoes the grandeur of Delhi’s past.
The stadium has been the stage for iconic moments in Indian cricket, from Sunil Gavaskar’s record-equalling century in 1983 to Anil Kumble’s remarkable 10-wicket haul against Pakistan in 1999.
However, beyond its sporting legacy, the stadium’s original name reminds us of a deeper connection to India’s rich history.

A short walk from the stadium leads you to the remnants of a 14th-century citadel built by Firoz Shah Tughlaq, a ruler of the Tughlaq dynasty. Firozabad, the city built by Firoz Shah, was the fifth city of Delhi, sprawling across what is now Northern Delhi Ridge and beyond Purana Qila.
This citadel, known as Feroz Shah Kotla, once boasted grand structures, though much of it lies in ruins today.
Author and filmmaker Sohail Hashmi highlights that the Kotla, though now in a dilapidated state, was once a part of the grand city of Firozabad.
The fortress's design influenced later Mughal fortresses, introducing the concept of Diwan-e-Aam (public audience hall) and Diwan-e-Khas (hall for nobles).
Rana Safvi, in her book The Forgotten Cities of Delhi, underscores the architectural innovations introduced here.

Despite its current state, some structures still retain their original shape, such as the baoli (stepwell) and parts of an ancient mosque.
This mosque, built by Junan Shah Telangani, the Prime Minister of Firoz Shah Tughlaq, is unique in its design. Unlike most mosques, the entrance faces north instead of east, due to the proximity of the Yamuna River to the east.
A striking feature of Feroz Shah Kotla is Ashoka’s Pillar, a testament to Firoz Shah Tughlaq’s ambition. The pillar, one of two brought to Delhi during Firoz Shah’s reign, towers over the other structures, symbolizing the historical depth of the site.

Today, the citadel lies largely neglected, with limited efforts to preserve its historical significance. Hashmi points out the lack of funds and intent to maintain the site, which now sees fewer tourists compared to more popular monuments in Delhi.
However, Feroz Shah Kotla holds a mystical allure for many. Every Thursday, groups visit the site, believing it to be home to resident djinns who can fulfill their wishes.
For those who take the time to explore, Feroz Shah Kotla offers a unique experience. Asif Khan Dehlvi, founder of Delhi Karavan, describes it as stepping into another world, where the ancient and the modern coalesce.